We woke to a cloudy sky this morning and dodged some drizzly rain to get to the cafe neaby where we bought breakfast. It was popular and very busy but the service was quick and food was excellent. This morning we were keen to be on the 10.15am Urban Highlights River & lake cruise run by the Mercury Cruises company. Their dock was just down below the hotel on the Riverwalk and there was already a crowd lined up when we bought out ticket. Of course everyone headed for the top deck.
The boat headed down the river first towards the lake, and the guide filled us in on the huge amount of work to reverse the flow of the Chicago River from 1892 to 1922.
In the late 1880s the city suffered from terrible epidemics because sewage fro the river was contaminating the city’s drinking water supply – Lake Michigan. They needed to come up with a solution and the answer was to reverse the flow of the river! They did this by digging canals and diverting the river flow into the canals that then emptied into the Mississippi. There is now a huge lock that separates the river from the lake.
We waited in the lock while dozens of boats joined us. Eventually they shut the city-side lock gate, opened the lake-side gate and we rose the 6 feet that is the difference in height between the two.
Out on the lake we cruised past Navy Pier and down along the waterline while the guide pointed out the major skyscrapers and parks. About halfway along the lake the rain started coming down and gradually people deserted the top deck.
The latter part of the cruise took us further down the river with a great commentary about some of the spectacular skyscrapers that are such a unique feature of Chicago. The beauty of the river is that it creates a big gap so that you really can “step back” and admire the buildings.
Under construction 
Trump Tower at left 
Our hotel s the tallest building here
We finally arrived back at the dock at midday and after a quick freshen up in our hotel we set off in the drizzle for the Art Institute of Chicago, which is described as one of the best art galleries in the world. It did not disappoint!
We made a beeline for “our” painting – after living the American Gothic in Eldon we were keen to see the original. It was smaller than I expected but still drew a big crowd.
In the contemporary galleries they had a fine collection of Lichtensteins and Warhols, and they have the largest collection of Impressionists that I’ve ever seen anywhere outside Paris!
The rain eased off for our long walk down to the Navy Pier, which was built in 1914 as a shiping and entertainment site. Originally called Municipal Pier, the people of Chicago loved it and in 1927 it was renamed as a tribute to the Navy personnel who served in the war. During World War II, the U.S. Navy took over the pier as a training center for pilots. One of those pilots who qualified for military service was George H. W. Bush! It’s had its ups and downs since then and in the 1970’s went through a major refurbishment – it is extraordinarily popular today and was heaving with people when we walked up.
We stopped for a late lunch at a lakeside cafe about midway along.
Afterwards we walked to the end and all the way back down the other side. I’d suggested to Neil that we could go to the Hancock tower to go up to the observation deck but he’s not a fan of heights so we gave it a miss!
Walking back we stopped briefly at the riverside park to take another look at the leake before heading back to the hotel. My legs were really complaining by the time we got back, lots of steps today, it’s a BIG city! We had some entertainment while resting our weary legs, they were shooting a Tv show on the footpath below, so we watched the rigmarole that goes on to film only a minute or two of video.
After some rest and recovery in the hotel we ventured out for dinner around 7.30. We enjoyed a light dinner at O’Briens Cafe, again on the Riverwalk – such great entertainment watching the passing parade of boats and people.
After dinner went for a wal down past the Chicago theatre again and popped in briefly to Macy’s before heading back to the hotel. The skyline is fabulous at nightime. I’ve loved Chicago, it has so much appeal with its lovely river and riverwalk, spectacular buildings and its setting on the lake. I would cheerfully come back someday.
