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| The local train |
We were the first ones on the terrace this morning just after they opened for breakfast. We only had 10 minutes to wolf down our fruit and croissants before we had to hit the streets for the 25 minute (according to Google) walk to Roma Termini station, we had a train to catch!
I thought that Google was overestimating, but it turned out that Google knew about the Quirinale hill…and I didn’t! The train to Cassino was half empty and the trip through the valleys south of Rome was uneventful. At the station we had no trouble identifying the American family that were joining us on the tour ( why is it that American tourists are so unmistakeable!) and fortunately Danila Bracaglia, our guide for the day, had no trouble identifying us, so we were soon packed into our 7 seater Fiat and touring up the steep mountain road to Montecassino Abbey.
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| Danila was a wealth of information |
We were doing the tour because Neil had said he couldn’t visit Rome without seeing the sight of the famous WWII battle and the other family ( George, Barbara and Abbie from Massachusets) were there because George’s father had fought there in 1944. Danila was a fountain of information about the battle, which pleased the two gents in our group and fortunately the abbey itself was beautiful enough to make the day enjoyable for myself, Barbara and 23 year old Abbie.
The 16th century abbey was almost totally obliterated by allied bombing but has been lovingly rebuilt as an exact replica. The loveliest part of the place for me was the crypt, which had survived the bombs and had sheltered the abbot and monks who had refused to leave their home. The ceiling is a gorgeous mosaic in gold glass with decoration of both Byzantine and Egyptian inspiration.
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| Montecassino Abbey |
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| Stunning mosaics in the crypt |
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| Tree of life |
Lunch was in a tiny family owned trattoria where we shared the specialties of the day:- deep fried anchovies, tripe in a rich tomato sauce, grilled sea bass, thin, thin slices of beef on a rocket salad. The anchovies were amazing but I won’t be rushing to try tripe again ,
It was a real pleasure chatting to the Americans about their travels and ours and we swapped notes about our favourite American national parks.
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| Commonwealth cemetery, with the abbey above |
Our visit to the Commonwealth War Cemetery brought back memories of the similar places we’d seen in France and it was good to see that this one was as well cared for as all the others. The day had been very warm and I was looking forward to a relaxing trip back to Rome on the air conditioned train but the afternoon but just as “all roads lead to Rome” it seems that “all Italians go to Rome” too, so the train was packed! Initially Neil stood and I sat on a step but eventually I got a seat, next to a chap with serious salami breath but I was just grateful to be off my feet.
For dinner we found another little restaurant in a quiet piazza away from the main drag. Dinner came with a show, first from one of the other patrons (obviously a local) who had been a little over indulgent with the vino and was serenading his equally lubricated friend – fortunately he had quite a good voice! Then later a traveling busker entertained the restaurant with a selection of classic Italian favourites on his guitar..before doing the rounds of the tables with his little bag open and looking us meaningfuly in the eye with a pleading “Grazie!” I doon’t know if we should have paid him, I haven’t been able to get “That’s Amore” out of my head since….