Finding Family Territory in Killaloe

When most people think of Ireland they think Dublin, Belfast, Killarney, Limerick etc, but not many think of Killaloe. However for me it was a must visit location in Ireland and I’m very excited to be staying the night in the town…more to come on that later…

The B & B in Kenmare must have had a full house last night as we occupied the last available table at breakfast and they had the later comers waiting in the lounge for a table when we left. The bed has been excelllent here but the supply of electricity out let’s is a bit light on for us gadget people and appallingly placed. They also have one of those stupid wall mountain hair blower arrangements that I first struck in Rome on a previous trip rather than an ordinary hairdryer. It’s basically a box with a hose the puffs lukewarm air at you in a half hearted manner, making cutting edge styling a near impossibility. I really needed to wash my hair and the results are , to put it kindly , unfortunate! Ah well, whine over, let’s get back to the touring!

The weather report for today wasn’t encouraging and the first part of our drive very damp but we were pleased to strike a little watery sun just after we passed Castlemaine ( proudly proclaiming itself as the home of the “Wild Colonial Boy” after seeing the sign I had the tune playing through my head for the next hour! ) If you can’t remember the tune click here for a reminder…

The view overlooking Inch beach was lovely, if a little grey..

By this stage we struck the first of the many big tour buses driving around Dingle peninsula, doing the Slea Head Drive. We’d avoided them yesterday but there was no missing them today, and under the circumstances it was better to be following them than trying to pass them .

On the hill overlooking the steely grey ocean we visited a small cluster of beehive huts, another Neolithic ruin but a smaller, more domestic version than the forts we’d seen previously. I’m still amazed at the workmanship of the stonework particularly around the doors.

There was a fine view from here too.

The views continued spectacular as we drove around Slea Head but it wasn’t always easy to find a parking spot at the viewpoints.

Out at the tip of the peninsular the road Narrowed even more and with cliffs to the right and stone fences to the left you’d have to be very glad if you didn’t have to pass, simply impossible!

Beyond the tip of Slea Head we could see the Blasket Islands, and just down the road we dropped in to visit the Great Blasket Centre. This large, bright modern Museum has a series of displays about the people who lived on the Blasket islands up until they were abandoned in 1952. In the early part of the 20th century the islands were one of the very few tiny areas in Ireland where Irish Gaelic was still spoken. With a surging interest in preserving the language, many academics and writers came to the islands to learn the language. The long term residents of the island had lived an isolated life, supported mainly by fishing but the advances of civilization ( and the fact that they had effectively stripped the island of all its peat So no heat source) meant that the population eventually dwindled to nothing. Now, the Irish government subsidizes certain areas of the country as “Gaeltacht” , areas which are actively Promoting the preservation of the language. The Dingle peninsula is one such area and we have heard the language spoken quite often in the last couple of days .

After the museum we started heading back East , passing back through Dingle and then on northeast , heading for the home of my ancestors , Killaloe. The weather was miserable for most of our drive and we were both nodding a bit by 2pm so we stopped in a little town for a caffeine hit. Finally at about 3.20pm we drove down to the river Shannon to the bridge that crosses it at Killaloe. We checked in to the Lakeside Hotel and after dropping our bags we set out on foot to explore.

My Great Great Great Grandfather, Denis Clancy was born in Killaloe in about 1760 and he died here at the age of about 81, a long life! His son John Clancy, was born in Ogonnelloe, just down the road from Killaloe in 1808 and in 1828 he married Bridget Ryan. John and Bridget had five children while they lived in Ogonnelloe but in 1841, he and Bridget emigrated to Australiawith their family!  I wonder what made them choose to pack up their lives and move to the other side of the world? It was before the potato famine so that wasn’t the reason. John’s father Denis died that same year, so maybe that loosened the ties to Ireland and set John free to pursue a different life, we’ll never know.  After John and Bridget arrived in NSW they had 2 more children, including my Great Grandfather John Luke Clancy.

The riverside looking across to the town and church is very pretty with lots of boats lining the shore. The 13 arch bridge across the river is very picturesque. Built in the 18th century it is also very narrow, making the traffic crossing for the river a bit of a nightmare! Only one lane, so cars are directed across from both side by turns using a series of traffic lights.

An ornate monument in the middle of the bridge commemorates the IRA members who were shot on the bridge in 1920. There is also a plaque recording the extensive 1825 partial rebuild. It was a bit hazardous crossing in the small pedestrian lane with the cars streaming past, especially as we had to plough our way through a horde of  oncoming high school kids. We looked in the window of the local real Estate agents, interested to know how much it would cost to buy a house in Ogonnelloe if anyone from the family ever decided to return.

As well as being famous as the birthplace of my ancestor, Killaloe is well known as the birthplace of Brian Boru (c. 941 – 1014), and High King of Ireland,(1002 – 1014). While Brian was High King, he ruled from Killaloe making it the “Capital of Ireland.” I can remember as a child being told that we Clancy’s were descended from Brian Boru ( but I’m afraid we have no proof of that! 🙂 )  There is a small Brian Boru heritage centre but it was closed when we walked past.

We walked up through the town to St Flannans church which stands on the site where Brian Boru had his palace, Kincora .

From the church we found a small path meandering behind the buildings which gave us another fine view down to the bridge before we set off back to the hotel.

The gardens of the hotel are really lovely, apparently they have a lot of weddings here, I can see the attraction for that !

Down beside the river at the hotel is a public jetty so we wandered down to see the swans as they glided past, the seemed hopeful that we’d produce something for them to eat but unfortunately all we had in our pockets was fluff! Tomorrow we’ll be heading west again but I’ve planned a route through Ogonnelloe. I’m not sure if there’s much to see but if there is I’ll take a picture of it!